Call me boring but I’ll be heading back to Switzerland and to Bernese Oberland this summer, to walk again under the watchful trio of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. The Tour of the Jungfrau region begins near Interlaken and circles clockwise some 100km in the popular area. I’ll be sharing the path with Alpine Pass Route from Kleine Scheidegg to Lauterbrunnen which will definitely be crowded but the views are worth it. I hope the weather stays clear for the Schiltron loop, to allow the climb up to the summit ridge and a visit to the famous James Bond restaurant on the top. As wild camping in the region is not encouraged, I’ll be using campsites in the valleys.
The last summer me and my old hiking pal, mr Overhill, wanted to see some real mountains. Because both of us having only very limited time in our hands, we decided to head straight to the most famous part of the Swiss Alps and walk from Meiringen to Kandersteg via trail that was already familiar to me from my earlier Switzerland through hike. Here’s some of the photos and the trip video:
During the first two days of our four day journey we enjoyed sunshine and great mountain vistas but then the winds brought foul weather to the deep valleys, and it just kept pouring with water the remaining of the time. However, as we didn’t have any pressure to walk certain amount of kilometres, the local restaurant in Kandersteg offered a good escape plan after we had taken a train there from Lauterbrunnen on third day. On the last day we did a day walk up to the Oeschinensee and back.
Overall, a great little escape to the popular part of the Swiss Alps, which also meant easy accessibility by public transportation. It was also great to see familiar landscapes and remember how it all started here back in 2009.
Here’s a summary of my thoughts about the GR5, how I prepared for it and what to consider. I hope this will help you to plan your own hike along the Alpine part of the GR5.
* The weather was very nice in July. It was too hot only during the last days and fortunately it didn’t rain too much either.
* It’s hard to hope for any better landscapes than this. Good thing is that the scenery changes along the trail so you’ll feel the progress and won’t feel numb about the constant line of mountains.
* For me worked well the combination of wild camping and campsites.
* To hike one month solo is unbelievably rich experience.
* Plenty of services throughout the hike.
* Easy to navigate, good paths and signposts.
* The walking felt strong and I avoided any blisters and muscle pains.
* It wasn’t too crowded. Some sections were more popular especially at weekends but several days passed by without seeing much people at all. And in the morning it was always very quiet to walk (between 6-9 am).
* Lot of wildlife; marmots, chamoix, bouquetins and even a golden eagle.
* I don’t like to deal with the sheep dogs.
* I would have liked to meet more like minded long distance hikers.
* The huge amount of snow this year.
* My shoes got broken in the end.
* Nuisance of the language barrier ( French).
My basic three were (about 3,5 kilos in total) Vaude Power Lizard tent, Osprey Exos 58 and RAB Alpine 400 down sleeping bag with a Thermarest cell foam mattress. Then rain gear and warm clothes as the wind and rain can be cold together. During the night the temps went sometimes down to +5C so my warm sleeping bag was quite alright.
I’m not using electronic devices but Suunto Core watch, which has a very nice altimeter. It was useful to monitor how much there was still to climb or to go down.
No crampons, ropes or other mountaneering equipment is needed but I advice to have walking poles. I bought the gas after landing in Geneva. There’s a Athleticum sports store just a half an hour walk from the airport.
With the guidebook of Paddy Dillon (Cicerone Press) one manages well but as I was going alone and not speaking French I decided to have some maps as well. I ordered online four IGN 1:100 000 maps, that will cover the whole route (144, 151, 158 and 165). Even if I cut off the extra halfs, they were useful to see more around the narrow corridor of the guidebook map, and to plan possible detours. I also printed maps from google of bigger urban areas, as they tend to be tricky to navigate.
Beforehand I marked all the possible camp sites and wild camping spots in to my maps. I tried to gather the info by reading other peoples trip reports.
I knew from the previous trips how the days will be and what condition I needed to be to cope with my planned schedule. Good basic fitness is enough if you plan your daily schedule according to it.
During the previous winter I tried to cross country ski as much as possible, at least once a week a long half a day exercise.
In spring I biked to work daily for couple of months, one hour per way.
After the snow had melt I did few longer day hikes at the weekends with a full backpack. I also went several times to a local ski hill to hike it up and down so that I made at least 500 vertical meters per exercise.
Just before the trip I went three times to see a masseur because of my legs felt quite tight. (Best decision ever!)
For me starting the day early comes natural but in my opinion all the factors speak for it too. In the morning is very quiet even until 9 am, when the people have finished their breakfast at refuges and are beginning their days. It was fantastic to be alone with the mountains plus one sees much more wildlife then.
For me the most important factor was, however, to avoid the typical Alpine afternoon thunderstorms. More than once the storm hit just when I had my tent up.
I like walking fast and as I had no one to chat with, I kept quite fast pace. Only few times I was very exhausted and close to my reasonable limits. I streched well every night and massaged my feet and muscles.
I ate only fresh bananas or a muesli bar at the camp in the morning and kept my real breakfast break after walking an hour or two. I then ate plenty of choko muesli, some cookies and buns.
For lunch I usually had some bread, cheese and sausages. I kept the lunch break when my body began to ask for it.
I tried to snack all the time; raisins, bars and hell of a lot of chokolate. In the afternoon I might keep a second lunch break too.
If I arrived early to camp, I boiled some noodles or fast porridge to get some warm meal. Then I waited until seven to be served at a restaurant. If I was wild camping I ate either adventure food or fast rice with dried premade soup ingredients. I was carrying five adventure meals from home and tried to have all the time food for three days with me. From the supermarkets I tried to buy always something fresh, fruits and juices.
I carried 1,75 liters of water with me, which was sufficient for me. There is plenty of water available and I didn’t need to drink from the streams at all. Not very advisable either as there are plenty of animals in great heights. I didn’t use any purification as the undrinkable water spots are marked so.
During the hike it went like this:
Accommodation 213 euros (1 night in a hotel for 90 eur, 2 nights in a refuge for 17 + 18 euros, and 13 nights at campsites averaging 6,8 eur/night)
Food 374 euros ( eating in restaurants and groceries both 187 eur)
So in total 587 eur (23,5 eur / day)
If you’re going early in the season, you might want to check the current trail and mountain conditions. As the Chamonix is close to the beginning, these websites are useful:
Please feel free to ask if having any questions!:)