GR5 Summary

Here’s a summary of my thoughts about the GR5, how I prepared for it and what to consider. I hope this will help you to plan your own hike along the Alpine part of the GR5.

ARantanen_GR5_2013_Day_5_00_web

POSITIVE:

* The weather was very nice in July. It was too hot only during the last days and fortunately it didn’t rain too much either.

* It’s hard to hope for any better landscapes than this. Good thing is that the scenery changes along the trail so you’ll feel the progress and won’t feel numb about the constant line of mountains.

* For me worked well the combination of wild camping and campsites.

* To hike one month solo is unbelievably rich experience.

* Plenty of services throughout the hike.

* Easy to navigate, good paths and signposts.

* The walking felt strong and I avoided any blisters and muscle pains.

* It wasn’t too crowded. Some sections were more popular especially at weekends but several days passed by without seeing much people at all. And in the morning it was always very quiet to walk (between 6-9 am).

* Lot of wildlife; marmots, chamoix, bouquetins and even a golden eagle.

NEGATIVE:

* I don’t like to deal with the sheep dogs.

* I would have liked to meet more like minded long distance hikers.

* The huge amount of snow this year.

* My shoes got broken in the end.

* Nuisance of the language barrier ( French).

GEAR:

My basic three were (about 3,5 kilos in total) Vaude Power Lizard tent, Osprey Exos 58 and RAB Alpine 400 down sleeping bag with a Thermarest cell foam mattress. Then rain gear and warm clothes as the wind and rain can be cold together. During the night the temps went sometimes down to +5C so my warm sleeping bag was quite alright.

I’m not using electronic devices but Suunto Core watch, which has a very nice altimeter. It was useful to monitor how much there was still to climb or to go down.

No crampons, ropes or other mountaneering equipment is needed but I advice to have walking poles. I bought the gas after landing in Geneva. There’s a Athleticum sports store just a half an hour walk from the airport.

ARantanen_GR5_2013_Day_0_00a_web

MAPS:

With the guidebook of Paddy Dillon (Cicerone Press) one manages well but as I was going alone and not speaking French I decided to have some maps as well. I ordered online four IGN 1:100 000 maps, that will cover the whole route (144, 151, 158 and 165). Even if I cut off the extra halfs, they were useful to see more around the narrow corridor of the guidebook map, and to plan possible detours. I also printed maps from google of bigger urban areas, as they tend to be tricky to navigate.

GR5 IGN maps

Beforehand I marked all the possible camp sites and wild camping spots in to my maps. I tried to gather the info by reading other peoples trip reports.

TRAINING:

I knew from the previous trips how the days will be and what condition I needed to be to cope with my planned schedule. Good basic fitness is enough if you plan your daily schedule according to it.

During the previous winter I tried to cross country ski as much as possible, at least once a week a long half a day exercise.

In spring I biked to work daily for couple of months, one hour per way.

After the snow had melt I did few longer day hikes at the weekends with a full backpack. I also went several times to a local ski hill to hike it up and down so that I made at least 500 vertical meters per exercise.

Just before the trip I went three times to see a masseur because of my legs felt quite tight. (Best decision ever!)

DAY RHYTM:

For me starting the day early comes natural but in my opinion all the factors speak for it too. In the morning is very quiet even until 9 am, when the people have finished their breakfast at refuges and are beginning their days. It was fantastic to be alone with the mountains plus one sees much more wildlife then.

ARantanen_GR5_2013_Day_11_08_web

For me the most important factor was, however, to avoid the typical Alpine afternoon thunderstorms. More than once the storm hit just when I had my tent up.

I like walking fast and as I had no one to chat with, I kept quite fast pace. Only few times I was very exhausted and close to my reasonable limits. I streched well every night and massaged my feet and muscles.

EATING:

I ate only fresh bananas or a muesli bar at the camp in the morning and kept my real breakfast break after walking an hour or two. I then ate plenty of choko muesli, some cookies and buns.

For lunch I usually had some bread, cheese and sausages. I kept the lunch break when my body began to ask for it.

I tried to snack all the time; raisins, bars and hell of a lot of chokolate. In the afternoon I might keep a second lunch break too.

If I arrived early to camp, I boiled some noodles or fast porridge to get some warm meal. Then I waited until seven to be served at a restaurant. If I was wild camping I ate either adventure food or fast rice with dried premade soup ingredients. I was carrying five adventure meals from home and tried to have all the time food for three days with me. From the supermarkets I tried to buy always something fresh, fruits and juices.

ARantanen_GR5_2013_Day_9_09_web

I carried 1,75 liters of water with me, which was sufficient for me. There is plenty of water available and I didn’t need to drink from the streams at all. Not very advisable either as there are plenty of animals in great heights. I didn’t use any purification as the undrinkable water spots are marked so.

EXPENSES:

During the hike it went like this:

Accommodation 213 euros (1 night in a hotel for 90 eur, 2 nights in a refuge for 17 + 18 euros, and 13 nights at campsites averaging 6,8 eur/night)

Food 374 euros ( eating in restaurants and groceries both 187 eur)

So in total 587 eur (23,5 eur / day)

RESOURCES:

http://www.grfive.com/

http://drw.me.uk/RedYeti/2010/06/29/gr5-the-book-a-gr5-honeymoon/

http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=69163

http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/track_notes_gr5_in_france.html

http://billtomlinson.net/me/Alpstrek.html

http://onefootatatime.wordpress.com/page/3/

If you’re going early in the season, you might want to check the current trail and mountain conditions. As the Chamonix is close to the beginning, these websites are useful:

http://www.ohm-chamonix.com/mountain-conditions-12100000.html

http://www.autourdumontblanc.com/en/index.cfm/general-conditions.html

Please feel free to ask if having any questions!:)

Advertisements

Next destination: GR5 – The Grand Traverse of the Alps

Back in 2009 when we were getting ready for the first day of the APR, an old, muddy and weary looking French backpacker arrived to Sargans train station.
After chatting with him we learned that he had just done the APR, and camping the whole way!

Wow, we thought, what a tough man. As total beginners we promised to do an alpine crossing in similar harder way one day.

This July I’ll be finally that French man, hiking solo the spectacular GR5 from Lake Geneva hopefully all the way south to Nice and camping whenever it is possible. This trip will again raise the challenge by one level from what I’ve been experiencing so far. It’ll be tough but I hope the preparations have been sufficient.

Here’s the itinerary of the route.  My knees said that the descent stats are a bit scary but let’s hope all goes well. I have four extra days which I’ll be using whenever the situation needs. And if not able to finish for some reason, then I’ll just need to make my way to the beach of Nice by public transportation.

GR5 Route stats

I’ll be using the Paddy Dillon’s guidebook (Cicerone Press) and four IGN 1:100 000 maps that cover the whole route.

GR5 IGN maps

Couple of weeks time to get everything ready. And most of all, let’s already hope the weather won’t be disastrous during this July!

GoExpo, Veikka G and 29km

Nice and sunny weekend in Southern Finland made me to walk some serious kilometres for a change. A six hour sprint with a semi full backpack to Järvenpää, ~29km, along very icy and uncomfortable roads and partly following skiing tracks and then by train back home, served well in a training purpose. The area around Tuusula lake looked very interesting in a historical and architectural aspect and would have been nice to have more energy left to explore the area more. There was the the cottage where our national author Aleksis Kivi had died, some ateljees, Erkkola house for arts, Lotta Svärd museum and many others.. I definitely have to go back by bike in the summer time!

Antti Rantanen 2012 March walk 01

On sunday I went to visit the GoExpo2012, an outdoor&camera expo where few of my B&W Alps photos were also shown:

(see the original post here)

Antti Rantanen GoExpo Alpit

Antti Rantanen GoExpo Alpit

However, the real highlight of the weekend was to listen Veikka Gustafsson, the man who has ascended all 14 eight-thousanders in the world without the use of bottled oxygen, giving a speech about his 20 years spent in high Himalayan mountains. I’ve never meet him before but now I had a chance to see him “live” for the first time and even shake hands. What an inspirational person!

Veikka Gustafsson